
The archipelago of Madeira is a mere speck on the map southwest of Portugal, but closer to north Africa. The main island (Madeira) is verdant and semi-tropical, yet it has a Mediterranean feel, with terracotta roofs, steep terraced vineyards and olive groves. Madeira has long been popular with genteel middle-aged people, but its vertiginous terrain and deep surrounding ocean offers adventure too.
Portuguese is the spoken language, but English is widely understood except in the rural hinterland. Madeira is a low-crime, safe destination, the only real hazard being furious local driving on narrow, precipitous winding roads. The capital Funchal is a bustling cosmopolitan city with historic buildings, pretty parks and colourful markets.
Tiny Porto Santo, 25 miles to the northwest, is barren in comparison, but is known as the 'Golden Isle' because of its glorious sandy beaches (Madeira's are pebbly). Porto Santo is famous for thalassotherapy (seawater treatments) and the therapeutic properties of its sand in which rheumatism and arthritis sufferers bury themselves for 30 minutes at a time. The island's most illustrious resident was Christopher Columbus, who has his own festival in September.
Many of Madeira's visitors come to walk the levadas, a network of 1200 miles of mini canals, carved into the volcanic rock by African slaves, to take the rainfall from the high peaks to the sugar cane plantations. There are myriad levada routes through ancient eucalyptus and laurel forests to suit walkers of all levels: some are extremely demanding.
Serious thrill seekers can canyon in summer when the northern rivers are high, and there's all year round paragliding thanks to Madeira's stable climate and clear skies.
There are effortless panoramic views from the 15-minute cable car ride from Funchal to the Monte district with its famous Monte Palace Tropical Gardens and 18th-century Church of Igreja do Monte. For an exhilarating descent o Funchal, you can hire a two-seater wicker toboggan complete with two strapping carreiros in straw boaters - Madeira's version of Venetian gondoliers - to guide you down the steep road.
The Old Blandy Wine Lodge, a former monastery, is where the fortified Madeira wine is matured, naturally heated in oak barrels in baking hot lofts. There's a guided tour and wine tastings. Funchal farmers' market sells exotic fresh flowers and agapanthus bulbs to take home. These beautiful blue or white flowers bloom all over the island. Traditional handmade embroidery is expensive but exquisite.
Eating out in Madeira is good value. Seafood is excellent and the island is awash with luscious fruit. Local specialities are lapadas - garlicky grilled limpets (great washed down with vinho verde), scabbard fish (espada), traditionally cooked with home-grown bananas, tuna (atum) and swordfish (espadarte). Carnivores relish the excellent espetada, (skewered beef). Afternoon tea on the terrace at legendary Reid's Palace Hotel where Winston Churchill stayed, is the Madeira equivalent of a Gin Sling at Raffles in Singapore. Coffee in Madeira's many cafés is excellent.
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