Motorcycling through Papua New Guinea

Tips for Backroad Biking in the Highlands

Papua New Guinea is one of the world's last truly isolated places, but not completely beyond reach. The cultural diversity is fascinating, hosting more than a quarter of the world's languages. Seeing the back country on a small motorcycle is an ideal way to find those unique places that are yet unspoiled by modernization.

Ride the Ramu Highway

If backroad biking and exploration are your style of holiday, start from Madang and take the Ramu section of the Highlands Highway up to Goroka and Mt Hagen. It will be a memorable ride if the weather is good, but depending on the time of year, it can be grueling in the rain.

Traveling southeast from Madang, there are a multitude of wonderful spots along the road to stop and enjoy some of the local food and scenery. There aren't many service stations or repair garages along the way, so it is wise to have spares and your own oil and gas.

Unpredictable road conditions are common throughout the country, and riders should be prepared for any number of hazards. Washed out bridges, landslides and continuous pedestrian traffic require careful attention, as New Guineans consider the road to be theirs.

Climbing up through the Kassam Pass, the climate changes dramatically from the valley bottom to the top. It is a steep ascent over 10 kilometres that winds crazily through the mountains to a frequently clouded peak. Trucks descending the pass can be a considerable risk, as drivers take the best side of the road regardless of which side that is.

Papua New Guinea Food, Fauna and Festivities

Be prepared for rustic fare wherever you go and, if possible, bring along your own contribution to a great village party. Rice, tinned fish and tobacco are certain favorites, but betel nut is the best gift possible. It does not grow in the highlands, and the people love it as a delicacy. Coming up from Madang, you will have plenty of opportunities to grab some in a market stall along the road.

The Paradise Hotel in Goroka will provide a wonderful diversion from your explorations, as it offers a completely modern facility with New Guinean flare. Should you wish to push on further into the highlands, it is recommended that you do most of your riding in the morning, as the afternoon can be rainy and cool.

The Baiyer River Animal Sanctuary is a fantastic excursion if you want to see some of Papua New Guinea's more exotic wildlife. It was the first to be established in the country, and definitely worth the trouble to get there.

Traveling west from Goroka you will pass through Kundiawa, center of the Simbu District. The Simbu people are very colorful in their daily dress, and you may be fortunate enough to witness a sing-sing.

Mt. Hagen is the main city of the Western Highlands, and home to the Wahgi tribe. If you plan your trip in July or August you may be able to attend the Highlands Show, the biggest cultural demonstration in the country. It alternates between Goroka and Mt. Hagen yearly.

Turning north from Mt. Hagen, the road to Baiyer River is somewhat poorer than the main highway, but still easily traversed by motorbikes. After climbing through foggy peaks, you will descend into a tropical rainforest unlike any other in the country. Tree Kangaroos, Birds of Paradise, as well as unusual reptiles and marsupials are on display, and may be your only chance to see these elusive creatures.

Load up your camera and ride!