The Godfather Of Granada

By Orato Editor Heather Wallace , Spain
Date Posted: 09/18/08 Reader Rating:

My guidebook said no self-respecting Flamenco fan would visit Granada and skip a visit to the Eshavira Club, which is owned by a man known as the "godfather" to flamenco artists of all ages. Last night I sought out the club and found it tucked away in the corner I´d circled on my map. There was an arrow pointing in the direction of the club, but the door was not marked, nor could I hear any life inside.

Timidly I pushed on the door, somewhat surprised when it actually opened. Inside there were so many photos adorning the wall, you could scarcely see a wall at all. There was no music, only a beautiful young woman sweeping the floor. I asked her if there was Flamenco tonight, and she shook her head. Apparently the godfather is on vacaciones. I'll forgive the godfather, and even thank him...it gives me yet another reason to return to a city I've not had enough time in.

I asked the beautiful woman if I could take her portrait in the club and she laughed, saying, "No, no, no." In Italian I insisted she was molta bella and begged again. She said, "Vale! Rapido," and she picked up her broom, standing in front of the portrait-adorned walls. I snapped one photo and then took away her broom. It was then that I captured my favorite image of the trip so far. More beautiful than La Alhambra, was a cleaning lady without her broom.

All photos copyright Heather Wallace. If you enjoyed this story, you may also enjoy Spain Tales: Room With A View, Spain Tales: Gastro, Sevilla: City Of Bicycles, and Spain Tales: The Rough Patch.